Papa Goose
91-93 Flinders Lane, CBD, Melbourne
03 9077 8117
British, Contemporary
$$$$$
Food
- House Charcuterie
- Seared Scallops with Glazed Chicken Ribs
- Charred Cuttlefish with Braised Octopus
- Port Arlington Mussel Escabeche
- Prawn Agnolotti with Pork Belly
- Wet Roast Suckling Lamb
- Fennel & Saffron Bouillabaise
- Peanut Butter Cup
- Lemon Tart
The Good
The Charred Cuttlefish and Braised Octopus was an impressive start to our meal. Stunningly presented, the tentacles of the octopus sprawled across the plate and was braised to a perfect tenderness. This was complemented by slices of cuttlefish that was equally tender and exhibited a slightly crisp char on the outer. All served alongside a rich and flavoursome squid ink, this seafood dish hit all the spots.
We were impressed by the Wet Roasted Suckling Lamb. Theatrically served on the dining table from a cast iron pan, generous chunks of lamb were heaved on top of the soft and creamy potato mash. Topping it all off was the juices of the lamb, providing a creamy and meaty flavour throughout. The lamb protein was cooked to perfection, very succulent and and tender, with juices flowing from every chomp down. This was one hearty dish and the perfect comfort food.
Finishing off the evening, we indulged in a Peanut Butter Cup. With exceptionally bold peanut butter flavour, the mousse-like concoction was extraordinarily creamy and smooth. This was served alongside an aptly sweet white chocolate, with contrasting textures from the coarseness of the coco crumbs.
The Lemon Tart was no less enjoyable. The silky smooth and creamy lemon curd provided a tantilising tartness with a sweet undertone, which was served on a crunchy and biscuity base. Served alongside this delectable pastry was a light and fruity green apple sorbet, with a sharp apple sensation that was well complemented by a creamy texture. Soaking it all up was the pillowy soft lemon myrtle sponge which was directly juxtaposed by the crunch of the crisp meringue.
The Mediocre
Unfortunately the Seared Scallops with Glazed Chicken Ribs failed to impress. While the flavours were bold and complimentary, the scallops were unexpectedly chewy and the chicken was tougher than we liked. However the glazing on the chicken ribs was absolutely delectable, with a hint of sweetness that was nicely complemented by the Sherry jus.
We also felt that the Prawn Agnolotti could’ve done with some improvement. The pastry of the dumpling itself felt overworked and dry, though the prawn within was flavoursome and juicy. However, the pork belly itself was cooked to perfection, with the fatty bits nicely redered down and a crispy skin remaining providing a satisfying crunch. A well-spiced broth and raddish accompanying the dish provided an additional kick in flavour.
The Bad
Nothing.
The Verdict
Traditional English cuisine often fails to excite, both in terms of diversity of offering as well as flavour. However, Papa Goose has definitely outdone the norm and proven that British food can indeed be creative and exciting, and we were definitely impressed by the range of traditional and modern dishes served tonight.
Would Penguin Eat Again?
Absolutely. Count me in for more hearty English meals!
Penguineats would like to thank @twogoodtoresist and Papa Goose for inviting us.