Ryne
203 - 205 St Georges Road, Fitzroy North
03 9482 3002
French
$$$$$
Food
- Trout Amandine
- Pork Belly
- Pan Fried Scallops
- Honey Glazed Duck Breast
- Flinders Island Salt Grass Lamb
- Valrhona 64 Manjari Soufflé
- Vanilla Cheesecake
The Good
It was off to an incredible start with the Trout Amandine. Topped with an incredibly crisp skin, the trout itself was simply heavenly. The meat was so delicate and tender, cooked to perfection with just the right firmness. Served alongside was a decadent helping of brown butter, offering just the right richness without being overwhelming. Impeccable.
We also enjoyed the Pork Belly. The elegant presentation made way for this simple piece of meat to absolutely shine. The crackle was light, crisp and crunchy, crumbling down onto juicy, succulent layers of lean and fatty pork. Each bite was absolutely full of flavour and bursting with juiciness, well accompanied by a delightful red pepper jam and some spiced pineapples that cut right through the oily bits.
The Pan Fried Scallops did not disappoint one bit. Served with a rich, creamy hazelnut veloute poured right on your table, hidden underneath leaves of baby cos lettuce were the fresh scallops. Lightly seared on both sides, these fresh crustaceans simply melted away in your mouth without much effort. Classically paired with some crisp confit duck and juicy shimeji mushrooms, this surf and turf of sorts certainly tantilised our tastebuds.
Our Honey Glazed Duck Breast was stunning. The duck itself was an absolute gem and no doubt cooked to perfection. This breast meat was undoubtedly the most tender we’ve ever come across, exceptionally succulent and tender, offering up just the right chewiness and texture that’s filled with a beautiful gamey duck flavour with each bite. This was served with a handful of earl grey infused dates providing a hit of gooey sweetness, and dressed with a fruity orange and berry sauce providing a refreshing hint of citrus.
We were also impressed by the humble Flinders Island Salt Grass Lamb. The lamb was once again flawlessly cooked, with a still-pink inner that was tender and juicy without a hint of bloodiness. The slightly caramelise outer with bits of rendered down fat offered up amazing flavour that worked remarkably with the gamey lamb. Held together by a light tang provided by an artful drizzle of balsamic jus and beautiful cloves of confit garlic, we can attest to the fact that this was no ordinary lamb dish.
Our meal drew to a conclusion this evening on a sweet note with the Valrhona 64 Manjari Soufflé and Vanilla Cheesecake.
Pouring the warm coffee anglaise into the elegant soufflé created an absolutely amazing flavour. We found the sweetness and bitterness well balanced, coupled with an almost fluffy texture of the warm, eggy soufflé.
The Cheesecake was unconventional to say the least. The cute dollops of cheesecake were incredibly smooth and creamy, with a lovely cheese flavour that was neither too rich nor sweet. Juxtaposing it was a generous helping of blood orange sorbet served on top of a slightly bitter cocoa nib crumble. The best bit was the gigantic piece of honeycomb, which offered up just the right amount of sweetness and an airy, crumbly texture. Such a delight!
The Mediocre
Nothing.
The Bad
Nothing.
The Verdict
Spearheaded by Donovan Cooke of ex-Atlantic, Ryne offers a modern French dining experience that’s excitable yet refined, allowing you to explore the skilful combination of traditional concepts of French cuisine coupled with contemporary influences.
For an unconventional and extraordinary dining experience that’s bound to tantilise all of your senses, Ryne is the place to be.
Would Penguin Eat Again?
We will most definitely be back!
Penguineats would like to thank Ryne for inviting us.