Pastarami

Food

• Mafaldine (beef shin ragu, gremolata, parmesan)
• Campanelle (button mushrooms, brown butter, thyme)

The Good

The Mafaldine was undoubtedly the highlight of our meal, offering up a wonderful combination of slow-braised beef shin, ruffled ribbon pasta and a delicate tomato-based sauce. The beef itself was beautifully tender, pulled apart into soft, succulent strands that yielded effortlessly with each bite, while the light tomato sauce coated the pasta without becoming overly rich or heavy. Accompanying the ragu was a refreshing gremolata, which provided a welcome contrast and helped balance the richness of the beef. A touch of chilli oil would have introduced an additional dimension of flavour, though even without it, this was a thoroughly delicious and well-executed pasta. Most definitely the dish to order here.

The Mediocre

The Campanelle, unfortunately, didn’t quite reach the same heights. The pasta offered a satisfying chew, while the accompanying button mushrooms were pleasantly fragrant and well cooked without becoming waterlogged. The brown butter provided a gentle richness, complemented by a restrained application of cheese that allowed the individual flavours to shine. While there was little to fault with the execution, the overall combination simply failed to leave much of an impression. Pleasant enough, though ultimately rather unremarkable.

The Bad

Unfortunately, the service left much to be desired. Upon enquiring about the $32 lunch special at our table, we were initially told that it was available, only for the same waitress to immediately reverse her answer when we attempted to order. Whether this was because we were dining on a Sunday remained unclear, particularly as no such restriction was stated anywhere in writing. Matters were hardly improved when an incorrect bill subsequently arrived, introducing yet another unnecessary complication to our meal. While the staff were genuinely warm and welcoming, these avoidable errors suggested that the front-of-house operation still had considerable room for improvement. A disappointing contrast to the otherwise capable kitchen.

The Verdict

With its charming butter-yellow walls, chequerboard tiles and reasonable prices, Pastarami makes for an appealing casual date-night destination along Swan Street. More importantly, the Mafaldine is an absolutely delightful plate of pasta, with beautifully tender beef shin and a wonderfully balanced tomato ragu, though the comparatively forgettable Campanelle suggests not every dish reaches the same standard. Unfortunately, the confusion surrounding the advertised lunch special, coupled with a subsequent billing error, put a dampener on an otherwise enjoyable meal. There’s undoubtedly the makings of a dependable neighbourhood favourite here, provided the service can catch up with the kitchen.

Would Penguin Eat Again?

Yes, most definitely for the Mafaldine, though we’d be clarifying the lunch special before ordering.

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